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Tick Tock, and nothing changes
- By Cam MacMurchy
- Published June 30, 2008
- Opinion & Analysis
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BEIJING - One day this week I arrived at Beijing Railway Station around 9 p.m. to find mayhem: Pouring rain, thunder and lightning, thousands of people and no taxis.
I left the station and made my way toward the taxi line-up, which resembled a swarm of bees around a hive. Sadly, I was without an umbrella and the rain was pouring down the back of my shirt as throngs of people pushed me aside to grab whatever taxis might be available.
There weren't very many. There were no security guards in the area and no one was taking charge to ensure the scene was orderly. People skipped the queue to grab taxis or walked further into the taxi parking area to catch a new driver as he entered the lot. Taxi drivers selected the passengers they wanted, scoffing at passengers who weren't going far enough.
The area is fenced and taxis aren't permitted to pick up passengers on streets near the train station, so walking somewhere to catch a cab was out.
My last hope was the subway, which has a stop conveniently located at the train station. But sadly, the stop, a key link between Beijing's largest railway station and the subway, has been entirely closed weeks before the Olympics -- and nobody is quite sure why.
This is Beijing in June 2008, weeks before it throws open its doors to the world. The taxi chaos at the station is typical of problems the city is facing. Services and preparations for the Games just aren't up to the standards westerners are used to.
I say this with some cultural sensitivity. Many Chinese would rightly ask why they should line up for a taxi just to please western visitors. It's hard to point fingers at a country and culture that have endured for 5,000 years.
As a long-term resident of China, I've become used to the daily quirks that come with living here. But while I roll my eyes and think, "that's China," when somebody lights up a cigarette in an elevator or loudly coughs phlegm onto the sidewalk, I wonder how visitors will handle it when they're here in August for the Games.
Beijing Airport's Terminal 3 opened to much fanfare in February, but critics have begun picking it apart. Many complain there is not one bookstore in the international departures area, for example.
James Fallows, a writer for The Atlantic, agrees the building is impressive at first glance. "But on each of my dozen trips in or out, there has been a significant flow problem -- a Sahara-size concourse with super-jammed choke points in varying areas," he writes. "The baggage stand, the passport lines, the trains going from one part of the terminal to another."
Foreign journalists are already complaining about the lack of preparation at some Olympic venues and the unhelpful volunteers. A journalist with an Italian organization ended up screaming at a volunteer at the China Aquatics Centre after she was sent running around to get approvals to enter areas of the site for which she was already accredited.
Or consider my experience a few months ago, when I walked into a travel agency to buy a train ticket.Spread The Word
4 Responses to "Tick Tock, and nothing changes" 
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said this on 30 Jun 2008 6:44:40 AM PST
The Beijing Railway Station Metro stop is being renovated. According to a mingongren I know and love, they are making the somewhat lackluster stop appear "fancy" to "wow" tourists and potential Tibetan activists. OK, yeah, I'm making up the part about the activists.
I wish I could sympathize with people's complaints about how poorly prepared China is. Sad thing is, I live in a hutong, crap like the locals and have little interest in what foreign journalists complain about....because....you know, it wouldn't matter what China did. They'd still be criticized. Same old story. Sorry to hear you had trouble getting a taxi. |
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said this on 30 Jun 2008 6:52:03 PM PST
This anecdote is just one of the numerous problems that China has, um, 5 weeks to fix. Leading the list would be the weather - in Beijing it has been 10 days since we have seen the sun.
The acute lack of taxis when it rains prompted me to ask a taxi driver, 'what will happen during the Olympics if it rains? It will be impossible to get a taxi!', to which I was told, 'It will not rain during the Olympics". What a great plan! I sure hope that someone, somewhere, has a Plan B in the event it does rain, but I am not holding out great hope. |
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said this on 01 Jul 2008 7:11:49 AM PST
Over the years, criticism itself has actually become an Olympic event. Although, that particular event happens before, during and after the Olympics, and the target is always the host city. As Hothotheat points out, China and its Olympic efforts have received plenty of criticism - and it's going to get a lot more in the next few weeks. But let's be clear. This happpens to every Olympic host city, much of it often coming from the citizens of those cities. Of course, you won't come across much of that this time for obvious reasons. Beijing Olympic organiizers and decision makers are slowly realizing what it's like to come under intense international scrutiny. When Beijing decided it wanted to host the Games, it also decided it could withstand, downplay or prove the critics wrong. Unfortunately for Beijing, it will probably come in for more criticism than usual for a number of reasons. Continually boasting about how wonderful everything is going via the staterun media (when, in fact, it isn't) and telling the outside world that "We Are Ready" (when, in fact, you aren't) are just a few of the missteps that China's leaders will eventually realize set them up for even more criticism than they would have received in the first place.
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said this on 03 Jul 2008 1:54:08 PM PST
Gah! Terminal 3 should be torn down and rebuilt. Sure, it looks fancy... but last week, when I had shown up at Terminal 3 when my flight turned out to be leaving from T2 (damn you Continental!), it took me about 45 minutes to get from one terminal to the other. The problem? Some genius decided that no stairs or escalators would be installed to bring people down from the 5th floor where departures leave to the 1st floor, where there are buses (the train was broken) to other terminals.
There were only two elevators available, and about 100 people had to wait at least 10 minutes to get on. Of course, when the elevator arrives, everyone from the first floor has to shove past with their bags and carts, making the crush unbearable. Add to that the fact that these were the slowest elevators ever, and I almost lost it... |

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