HONG KONG - I'm like many of the long-term China expats who write on other blogs.  I came to China in 2004 with a certain set of beliefs that I learned through books, popular culture, documentaries, and textbooks in the west.  And like other expats, my views have evolved as I gain greater understanding of China.  While I still believe a democratic government is superior to China's system, I also believe that China has many variables that may make it unsuitable to democracy, at least right now.  I also give credit where credit is due: China's unfortunately-named Communist government has made great strides since the reform and opening was piloted in Shenzhen 30 years ago, and the Chinese people themselves have been great beneficiaries.

That being said, there are certain fields where compromise is much harder, despite what others may say.  The night of June 3, 1989, and subsequent days in Beijing is one of those examples.

I have read a number of excellent stories on how China has changed since 1989, and the general theme has been that the Chinese people have actually been granted what the students were calling for: more transparency, the chance to purchase consumer goods, more personal freedom, and a better life.  In this respect, the deaths on June 4th were not in vain.

I don't want to get into a discussion over whether the decision made by Deng Xiaoping and the elders was correct or not.  We, frankly, have no way to answer that question.  What is strikingly sad to me, however, is that not only is the Tiananmen Square Massacre unknown to many Chinese under 30, but they are not even curious to learn about it. I don't believe that government controls are solely responsible (Chinese people seem to have read-up on other hot button and sensitive issues), but rather an attitude of indifference.

This attitude has left an indelible mark on me, and has shaped my opinion of China and the Chinese people.  I have grown to believe that Chinese people do care mostly about money, and they have lost their interest in politics.  On top of this, I have had the pleasure to work in several state-run media outlets, two of which fell under the Central Government.  The staff of these outlets were largely Communist Party members, some could be classified as fenqing, and nearly all could be counted on to support the government, no matter what it said (perhaps a prerequesite for such kind of job). It is a suffocating environment, devoid not only of discussion and debate, but of interest and passion.

While a vast generalization is grossly unfair, generalizations are made for a reason.  People in China, as has been reported widely, are just not interested.

Which is why what happened in Hong Kong tonight was so moving.

I got my first glimpse of what I was to experience when I exited Tin Hau Station at around 7:15pm, and hundreds of people crowded the corridors to queue up for the escalators.  Upon reaching street level, I was greeted with people offering June 4 documentaries, signs, and candles for donations.  Victoria Park in Hong Kong was full... full of people singing and clutching their candles to remember the victims of June 4.  Strikingly, many of the people attending were young; some looked like they were in college, some even younger than that.  Many people brought their toddlers and even babies.

I fought through the crowd, soaked with sweat in the steamy humidity.  When I reached the east side of the park, after some 45 minutes, I saw thousands more blocking roads as they streamed towards the vigil.  What I saw left a lump in my throat that I won't soon forget: people in Hong Kong care.  Most were not in Beijing in 1989, many don't remember the event, and some were not yet born.  But they grasp the significance of it, that people of their own country - young, educated, potential leaders of tomorrow - were gunned down in cold blood.  They feel it is important to remember.

One person held a sign reading, "Economic progress does not excuse mass murder".  While it has a tinge of radical activism, it makes a good point: too often we overlook what happened and justify it by pointing out China's rapid economic growth.  Yes, things are better.  Yes, Chinese can now buy Nikes, and yes, they are free to date one another, go to bars, and travel abroad.  But does that mean using the military to fire on one's own citizens was okay?

While I have been disheartened by the Chinese attitude towards June 4 in the past, I am encouraged by the dedication of the people of Hong Kong. I don't expect Chinese people to agree, or even sympathize with the students of 1989.  But remembering their sacrifice is a different matter.  In fact, it could be argued that their sacrifice helped create the more prosperous China of today.  For that, Chinese people simply choose to either be ignorant or forget -- forget their own countrymen, who died trying to seek a better life.  But tonight, on a hot and steamy night, Hong Kong people could be excused if they wanted to go home and have a cold shower or dine outdoors under the stars.  Instead, 20 years later, they fought the heat and crowds and spent a night together, as Chinese - singing, holding candles, remembering.

China's government may not allow such a demonstration on the mainland, but it would be nice to hear about some small ceremonies or gatherings, or at least some questions being asked by colleagues or friends.

Instead, it is silent in Beijing.  The government has whitewashed June 4, and the people have happily gone along with it.

It is a sad day.